Wolraesun Gyojagwan 월래순교자관

More than twenty small pan-fried dumplings crowd a single plate of gunmandu, browned and crisp underneath, with thick, springy tops. A dab of black vinegar suits the lightly seasoned pork-and-chive filling better than a heavy sauce. Xiaolongbao come nine to an order, joined by pan-fried xiaolongbao, boiled dumplings and steamed flower buns. Gogi-wanja looks like sweet-and-sour pork but wears a salty soy-based glaze instead, and the egg fried rice is dry and fluffy. Mapo tofu, wonton soup and the stir-fried di san xian turn the dumplings into a full meal with broth and vegetables. Salad, soup and side dishes come from the self-service bar, where the zha cai is heavily spiced. The restaurant sits on Garibong-dong's street of Chinese eateries and has a separate waiting room.