Pyeongyang Myeonok 평양면옥

Shoes come off at the door of this old hanok-fronted house in Oryu-dong, where the noodles are pressed to order. They are thick, more wheat-springy than buckwheat-fragrant, and the clear mul-naengmyeon broth starts almost plain, gaining body and seasoning as starch from the noodles dissolves. Chewing the two slices of beef garnish with the noodles brings out the savory side, so save the vinegar and mustard until you have tasted that change. Nokdu-jeon, a thick mung-bean pancake, is crisp at the edges and moist in the middle, and pyeonyuk, sliced pressed meat, makes a larger meat course. Street parking is scarce, so drivers walk over from the Oryu 1-dong Teotgol public car park.