Bareun Hwangso Gopchang 바른황소곱창

The assorted gopchang platter comes out pre-grilled and staff finish it at the table, which takes the guesswork out of the trickier cuts. It mixes nutty small intestine full of marrow, juicy large intestine (daechang), chewy makchang and heart. Whole daechang pieces are larger and bouncier. Raw liver, beef tripe, fish-cake soup and pickled perilla leaves come as standard sides. Wrapping the meat in spicy buldak tongtong noodles cuts through the fat, and kkakdugi (radish kimchi) fried rice finishes the meal. The small shop is a short walk from Sadang Station, with space under the chairs to keep coats away from the smoke.