Yongsan Samgyetang 용산삼계탕

Naju perilla seeds are ground into the perilla samgyetang until the broth turns thick and nutty, while the black-sesame version, made with Boryeong seeds, comes out dark and toasty. Both bowls hold tender chicken and chewy glutinous rice, and arrive still boiling so they stay hot to the end. Two diners can compare the broths by ordering one of each. The thin, crisp potato pancake is the side most tables add, though with two half-chicken bowls it can be too much. Seasoned garlic scapes and radish kimchi break up the richness. A second-floor room takes group dinners.