Wondang Soegogi Gukbap 원당쇠고기국밥

The red broth, packed with dried cabbage leaves, looks fiery, but under the heat there is a sweetness from the radish and greens. The beef is cut into small bite-size pieces, which can feel skimpy if you were expecting big chunks. Gomtang, the mild beef soup also on the menu, arrives unseasoned so you add scallions and salt yourself, and dropping dumplings into it makes an easy bowl for children who cannot handle spice. Both soups come in earthenware pots that stay hot to the end.