Wangbakgol Sikdang 왕박골식당

Hand-pulled, the noodles come in uneven widths, and that unevenness is the fun of chewing this jang-kalguksu. The broth, thickened with gochujang and doenjang, leans savory rather than fiery, so anyone expecting a punchy version may find it mild. Big sea snails lend the soup a seafood aroma, and the sweetish dongchimi has an odd, moreish flavor that keeps your spoon going back. The gondre mandu, filled with a wild mountain green, have a chewy skin and a juicy filling.