Udo Seom Sonai 우도섬소나이

The jjamppong noodles are made with hijiki and gulfweed, two seaweeds Udo is known for. U-jjam is loaded with abalone, shrimp, mussels and squid in a smoky, chili-hot broth that makes you want to add rice once the noodles are gone. Baek-jjam, a cream jjamppong, gets cheongyang chili and never turns cloying. The pizza draws as much praise as the noodles: a thin hijiki crust topped with Udo peanuts, light enough for two to finish a whole one.