Taejo Gamjaguk 태조감자국

Taejo Gamjaguk is a gamja-tang restaurant on Bomun-ro 34-gil in Seoul's Seongbuk-gu, reportedly the oldest establishment in Korea to carry the gamja-tang name, having opened in 1958. It began in a modest stall inside Donam Market before relocating to its current larger, well-maintained premises near Sungshin Women's University. The restaurant's name uses gamja-guk rather than gamja-tang, reflecting the era of its founding when individual portions were served in earthenware bowls rather than communal pots boiled at the table. The defining characteristic of the broth is its clarity and restraint. In contrast to the aggressively spiced, fiery stock typical of chain gamja-tang restaurants, the first sip here may register as mild, but the flavor builds progressively as the soup reduces on the burner. Generous additions of perilla seeds and perilla leaves deliver the classic Seoul-style nuttiness, and liberal use of garlic and ginger adds further aromatic depth. The pork spine bones carry abundant, tender meat that separates easily, and the starchy, crumbly potatoes and glass noodles round out the bowl. Regulars consistently recommend the traditional version over the aged-kimchi variation, as the former allows the broth's natural depth to come through more clearly. Adding ramyeon noodles or rice into the pot is enjoyable, but finishing with bokkeumbap fried rice is strongly advised as the essential closing course. Additional broth and seasoning paste can be requested. Folding doors installed along the front wall open during favorable weather, and during cherry blossom season the street-side view becomes an unexpected bonus. When the ground floor is full, basement seating is available, and the staff are notably friendly and attentive throughout. Parking in the university area is extremely limited, so using a nearby paid lot or arriving by public transit is the practical choice.