Taejo Gamjaguk 태조감자국

The first spoonful is mild, almost bland, because the broth is clear and light, and it deepens as the pot simmers down. Ground perilla seeds, plenty of perilla leaves, garlic and ginger set this gamjatang (pork backbone stew) apart from spicier chain versions. Meat comes off the bones easily, potatoes are fluffy, and glass noodles fill out the pot. The original suits this broth better than the aged-kimchi version, which turns sour, and the meal ends with bokkeumbap, rice fried in the leftover broth. Founded in 1958 in Donam Market, the shop now sits near Sungshin Women's University, and its folding doors open onto cherry blossoms along the road in spring.