Seongbukdong Myeonokjip 성북동면옥집

Wang galbijjim, giant braised beef short ribs, cooks in a gentle soy-based sauce until even the membrane on the bone turns tender and the meat slides off. Braised onions come alongside, and once the ribs are nearly gone, cold noodles or fried rice finish the meal. Hoe naengmyeon uses Hamhung-style noodles as thin as pencil lead, tossed in a savory sauce and topped with raw pollock and pear. Wine corkage is free apart from a per-person glass charge, and parking is by paid valet. The Austrian Embassy stands across the street, and Seongbuk-dong Bread Factory next door makes an easy dessert stop.