Somunnan Seongsu Gamjatang 소문난 성수 감자탕

The pork backbones are large, and the meat slides off at a touch of the chopsticks; dip it in the mustard sauce with chili, scallion and garlic. Add sujebi and a staff member tears hand-pulled dough straight into the pot, then the leftover broth becomes fried rice. Solo diners get gamja-guk, a single-serving version of the same stew. Open all day, every day, the place is packed with international visitors, but an annex keeps the queue moving. Your whole party must be present to be seated, and valet parking is added to the bill.