Daedo Sikdang Wangsimni Bonjeom 대도식당 왕십리본점

Nearly 60 years in, the original branch has been renovated in black tones, and diners now grill their own beef instead of having staff do it. Saeng-deungsim is cut around the chewy tteoksim, the connective strip in the sirloin, and the cast-iron plate runs hot enough to crisp it while the meat stays juicy. Daepae-deungsim, shaved sirloin served frozen, cooks quickly and tastes nutty. Sides are limited to scallion salad and salt. The fried rice finish, kkakdugi-bokkeum-bap, starts with scallion oil and comes out tangy and loose-grained. Wine corkage and valet parking are available, and quiet slots such as Monday evenings often mean no wait.