Ssangdungi Haejangguk 쌍둥이해장국

The haejangguk mixes large pieces of blood curd with tripe, assorted offal, dried radish greens and bean sprouts, and every spoonful chews a little differently. Taste the broth plain first, add a spoonful of perilla-seed powder, then chili oil and dadaegi paste, and the nuttiness and heat build one after the other. Yang bokkeum, tripe stir-fried in a sweet, spicy sauce close to jeyuk, leans more toward drinks than rice.