Songwol Memil Guksu 송월메밀국수

From the wooden hanok floor you look out on a garden that changes with the seasons, with corn hanging under the eaves or buckwheat in flower in summer and autumn. Mul makguksu comes in a mild broth reminiscent of Pyongyang naengmyeon, the buckwheat aroma rising slowly. Besides the usual boiled pork there is warm modubu, a half-silken tofu worth tasting plain first and then with chives dressed in perilla oil. House-made makgeolli, flowering crabapple wine and gasiogapi liquor are sold by the bottle.