Yeonggwangjeong Memil Guksu Bonjeom 영광정메밀국수 본점

With a high share of buckwheat, the memil guksu noodles are coarse and snap easily, and the onion-based sauce tastes plain at first. Halfway through, pour in the icy dongchimi, radish water kimchi, and the bowl turns cold and clean. Shoes come off at the door of this floor-seated house under an old orange roof, where the gamjajeon is nothing but grated potato and salt.