Songam Onban 송암온반

Tucked into the hanok alleys of Ikseon-dong, the restaurant occupies a traditional house with a lit garden, and tables are booked through CatchTable. Its onban is a clean, light broth poured over barley rice and topped with thin rolls of boiled pork, a refined take on dwaeji gukbap (pork and rice soup). The soy-sauce suyuk, sliced boiled pork, comes with salted shrimp and radish salad and has no gamey edge. Perilla-oil makguksu, buckwheat noodles, is nutty and generous, and the buchu-jeon (chive pancake) is more chives and seafood than batter. Dessert is a small dish of maesil, Korean green plum.