Sogeumbachi Sunine 소금바치 순이네

Stone octopus stir-fry (dolmuneo bokkeum) comes heaped with perilla leaves, its sauce sweet and salty in a way that recalls jjajang black bean sauce, with a smoky wok edge. Thin wheat noodles come with it and get mixed into the sauce first. Rice and the bean sprout side dish go into what remains, the sprouts adding crunch and softening the salt. Since the stir-fry has no broth, sea urchin soup (seongge-guk), mildly sweet, or bomal-guk made with small sea snails fills that gap. Weekend queues start in the morning and can run past an hour, though the Jongdal-ri shore right in front makes the wait easier.