Seosan Kkotge 서산꽃게

Roe-packed ganjang gejang, raw crab cured in soy sauce, gets mixed into multigrain rice with black rice and beans, then wrapped in gim or gamtae seaweed. The soy brine is not harsh, and the tender meat carries no fishy edge. Side plates matter as much as the crab: crab-meat pancakes, eoriguljeot (spicy salted oysters) and braised kimchi. Rice is refilled as often as you like. September, in the autumn blue crab season, brings the fullest roe. The restaurant sits in an alley in Dohwa-dong, Mapo, and walk-ins rarely find a seat without a booking. Drivers use the paid lot in front because there is no dedicated parking.