Ohyeon Bulbaek 오현불백

This bulbaek house on Seongji-ro near Dongmun Market cooks pork bulgogi and a pan of black pork stir-fried with hanchi, a small Jeju squid. The side dishes are what tend to stick in memory: spicy marinated raw crab and an oddly shaped rolled omelet, refilled as fast as they empty. The marinade is mild and pleasantly sweet. Jeju tangerines come out for dessert.