Namyeongdon 남영돈

Since 1982, two generations have grilled pork over charcoal on this spot near Sookmyung Women's University Station. Staff cook thick cuts of gabri-sal, hangjeong-sal (pork jowl), samgyeopsal and moksal over a fierce fire and swap the brazier when the heat drops. Gabri-sal, a strip from the top of the loin, releases fatty juice with each bite, and hangjeong-sal is the chewier cut. Salt, squid and clam jeotgal (salted seafood), scallion kimchi and radish salad change the flavor from cut to cut, and a kimchi stew packed with pork comes with the table, with cold jjolmyeon noodles to close. Friday-evening waits can pass 90 minutes, and a high step at the entrance makes wheelchair or stroller access difficult.