Myeongnyun Son Kalguksu 명륜손칼국수

Hand-pulled noodles come in uneven widths and thicknesses. The thick pieces chew like sujebi (torn dough) while the thin edges break apart easily. The broth is a clear beef stock rather than milky bone soup, mild at first, and the scallion seasoning on the table brings up both salt and aroma. Suyuk here is lean beef sliced thick and boiled tender, served with soy dipping sauce and chojang (tangy chili sauce), and even the small plate is plenty for two. Adding seolleongtang and saengseonjeon, egg-battered fish fillets, makes a spread that feels like a holiday table. The room is hectic because it opens for only about 2 hours at weekday lunch. Sit down even at an uncleared table and order when staff come to clear it. The dining room, where you sit on the floor, is in a Myeongnyun-dong alley between Hyehwa Station and Sungkyunkwan University.