Morak Sikdang 모락식당

At Morak Sikdang in Deokso, diners never grill the galmaegi-sal themselves. Staff cook the whole-cut pork skirt at the table from start to finish. The meat has no gamey smell, a moderate chew and a sweet finish that works with drinks as well as with rice. Among the side dishes is a spicy seasoned crab the owner makes in-house, easy to pick at between pieces of pork, and after the meat comes doenjang sulbap (rice in soybean-paste broth), bibim guksu or cold mul naengmyeon. Some diners finish by moving next door to Morak Cafe.