Kanda Soba Hyehwa 칸다소바 혜화점

Daehangno's theater district is right outside, and weekday lunch draws office workers, though the large room and quick turnover keep the wait short. The shop suggests eating mazesoba in thirds: plain, then with chili oil, then with a little vinegar, adding minced garlic along the way and finishing with complimentary rice in the sauce. The pork-rind aburasoba tops the noodles with fresh, chewy skin that never turns heavy. Tonkotsu ramen is thick enough to form a film of fat as it sits, and beer or a soda cuts through it.