Jongdal Miso 종달미소

In a converted old warehouse, diners load their own plates from a line of side dishes and soups. Olle trail walkers and nearby workers crowd in at lunch, sometimes making for a 30-minute wait. Hot dishes such as jeyuk bokkeum (spicy stir-fried pork), duruchigi, fish cutlet, and braised tofu share the counter with soy-marinated raw crab and seasoned cockles. Soups include a tangy kimchi stew and clear clam seaweed soup. Vegetable sides such as cold cucumber soup, sauteed zucchini, and spring cabbage salad change with the season and stay lightly salted.