Jojo Kalguksu City Hall 조조칼국수 시청점

Three dipping sauces sit beside the nakji haemul pajeon: sashimi soy, dark soy, and chojang (vinegared chili paste). The pancake comes heaped with octopus and shrimp and fried crisp at the edges, though it carries a lot of oil. In the dongjuk kalguksu, the clams land between littleneck and scallop in texture, plump and springy, and the clear-looking broth is saltier and spicier than it appears. The kimchi is underripe, crunchy, and hotter than expected. Mulchong jogae-tang, clams in broth without noodles, suits an evening of pancake and makgeolli. Set on a side street between City Hall and Gwanghwamun, the hall fills at lunch and dinner, and the ceiling does little to absorb the noise.