Jinyeong Myeonok 진영면옥

The first sip of the Pyongyang naengmyeon broth tastes quietly meaty, then a second wave of savoriness arrives, with a chicken-stock aroma setting it apart from older names such as Woo Lae Oak. Smooth buckwheat noodles carry good aroma, and a large size is available. Toppings stay spare, just julienned cucumber, sliced beef and a single slice of pear, with white kimchi and pickled radish on the side. Yangji suyuk, warm sliced brisket, sits in hot broth over crown daisy and mushrooms, and often sells out by early afternoon. The mung bean pancake is crisp outside but starchy, with little mung bean flavor. Parking in the surrounding alleys is nearly impossible, and even weekday lunches mean registering at a kiosk and waiting a long while.