Jintaewon 진태원

Even with the sauce poured over, the tangsuyuk (sweet and sour pork) keeps its crisp batter to the last piece, and it comes topped with raw cabbage. The sauce leans sweet more than sour. Jjajangmyeon, black-bean noodles, comes in an old-style version that is less sweet and less oily, while the jjamppong seafood soup sits at a medium level of heat. With only about 5 tables, the shop takes phone numbers at opening, and people wait at nearby cafes until called. Weekend waits of 2 to 4 hours are common, and even a weekday lunch can mean more than an hour.