Jinmi Sikdang 진미식당

Each blue crab is too big to fit whole into a naengmyeon bowl, and the meat fills even the tips of the claws. The soy marinade is neither too salty nor too sweet, with a mild chili edge that leaves the crab's sweetness intact. The ganjang gejang set comes with gamtae seaweed, steamed egg and soup; crab and rice get wrapped in gamtae or laver, and rice mixed into the shell with the roe and innards finishes things off. Scorched-rice soup, nurungji, closes the meal. Tables are often booked weeks ahead, though walk-ins are also seated, and takeaway crabs must be reserved too.