Jeonjujip 전주집

Inside an alley lined with dak-hanmari whole-chicken shops near Dongdaemun, this place grills fish instead. The saengseon-gui baekban, a grilled-fish set meal, comes with mackerel, Spanish mackerel, hairtail or dried yellow corvina; mackerel is thick and moist, Spanish mackerel crisp-skinned. A staff member handles only the grilling and brings the fish to the table, with seasoned perilla leaves among the side dishes. Ojingeo-bokkeum, spicy stir-fried squid with whole thick pieces, gives the mild fish a seasoned partner on the rice. Soups such as dried radish greens or cheonggukjang come with the tray, and solo diners get a one-person setting even at busy hours. Evenings turn loud with drinkers.