Jeju Eunhui's Haejangguk Bonjeom 제주은희네해장국 본점

The earthenware bowl arrives at a rolling boil, heaped above the rim with cabbage greens, bean sprouts, thin-sliced beef and glass noodles. There is only one small piece of blood curd, so seonji fans order the extra portion separately. Broth and rice are refilled on request, and the naejangtang (offal soup) swaps the noodles for perilla powder. The kkakdugi on the side is made with winter radish and tastes sweet.