Jangteolbo Seolleongtang Bonjeom 장털보설렁탕 본점

Open since 1992 near Ogeum Park, the shop sets down a bowl of seolleongtang about a minute and a half after ordering. Thin slices of beef brisket go into the ox-bone soup. They turn a little dry as you chew, and a dunk in the tangy soy dipping sauce helps. Diners season the broth themselves with salt and pepper. Seonji haejangguk, ox-blood curd soup, takes a different direction: a mild soybean-paste broth with dried cabbage leaves, a few bean sprouts, and blood curd slightly firmer than soft tofu. The house kimchi is strongly seasoned, and add-on noodles are best eaten first because they soften fast in the broth.