Jamae Gukbap 자매국밥

Since 1992 this place has been serving pork gukbap in an old converted house in a Millak-dong alley; shoes come off at the door, yet the rooms hold ordinary tables and chairs. Waiting customers draw numbers from a kettle out front. The soup is warmed by toryeom rather than boiled, and arrives with rice already in and a mound of ssamjang-based seasoning on top. If that tastes too sweet or salty, scoop some away, or order ttaro-gukbap with rice on the side from the start.