Hyun Udon 현우동

Hand-kneaded, thick noodles hold their chew whether they sit in hot broth or cold tsuyu. Ebi ten mochi udon is the cold one: shrimp tempura and fried rice cake over chilled noodles with tsuyu poured on top. Mentaiko ankake tamago toji udon goes the other way, a thick, hot broth with pollack roe and egg stirred through. Chef Park Sang-hyun's small shop runs with three cooks, and solo diners have a good row of bar seats. Parking fits about 3 cars, and the music is loud enough to make conversation hard.