Instant Udon Jjajang 즉석 우동짜장

Noodles are cut by machine the moment an order comes in, then rinsed in cold water, giving medium-thick strands that are slick and chewy. The shop is open 24 hours with only 10 to 15 seats, and parking is hard. A family runs the small, old-fashioned room, and even in the small hours customers keep arriving until it is nearly full. The udon broth, drawn from dried shrimp, is clean with a punch and gets a fried topping; the jjajang is old-school, smelling of instant sauce at first and turning oddly addictive. House-made kkakdugi radish kimchi is cool and crisp. The gopbaegi double size suits big appetites, since regular portions are small.