Hyundai Kalguksu 현대칼국수

Off a back alley in Bukchang-dong, this kalguksu shop has spent more than 45 years serving a clear anchovy and kelp broth over hand-cut noodles. Seokkeo-kalguksu adds mul-mandu, small boiled dumplings that are not salty, to the same bowl. Chopped green onion and cheongyang chili come on the side; a big handful of green onion freshens the broth noticeably. Extra rice and noodles are free, and the house-made cabbage kimchi and cubed radish kimchi stay crisp. Some finish by mixing rice into the last of the broth. The room is large enough for solo diners, and the lunchtime line near City Hall moves fast.