Hwang Daegutang 황대구탕

The pot holds fresh cod, not frozen pollock, so the flesh is springy yet comes apart along the grain on your spoon. Radish and bean sprouts keep the clear broth clean, it deepens as it simmers, and minari (water dropwort) or extra cod innards make it richer still. Mul-gom-tang is fiddly with fine bones, but the flesh melts, and on days when roe is inside it adds a popping bite. The squid sundae comes grilled crisp like scorched rice, not in the form sold at the market.