Hongmyeong 홍명

Onions in the gan-jjajang barely touch the wok and stay crunchy and sharp, close to raw, against the black-bean sauce served on the side. The sauce looks oily but finishes light, and whatever is left goes well over a bowl of rice. Expect a queue near Hakdong Station, though weekday lunch moves quickly, and valet parking is offered. Shared dishes include nanjawanseu (tender minced-meat patties in sauce), yusanseul and Sichuan tangmyeon, while lunch adds jungwha deopbap, rice with wok-charred spicy pork. Handmade dumplings (sujae mandu) are an evening-only order, limited to one plate per table.