Haeju Naengmyeon 해주냉면

Spicy bibim naengmyeon here starts mild for the first few bites, then the heat builds until it suddenly hits hard. Mixing in half the red sauce first and adding the rest after tasting keeps it manageable. The long-standing formula from the table caddy is one circle of vinegar, two of mustard and two spoons of sugar, and the sugar is what pulls the flavor together. Salty, peppery warm broth and pickled radish are self-serve with unlimited refills. Mul naengmyeon, in cold broth, has no heat at all for companions who avoid spice, and boiled mulmandu dumplings soften the burn. Open near Jamsilsaenae Station since 1988, it takes orders through a small kiosk at each table.