Gwang 광 (光)

Chef Shin Jeong-yong ran this izakaya in Gugi-dong for about 10 years, closed the old space, spent a stretch running a tempura-bowl shop, then reopened nearby on Jinheung-ro. The new room reuses the old wallpaper color, saved posters and pieces of the broken former signboard. After closing each night he shops at Noryangjin fish market, so beyond the assorted sashimi, mackerel bar sushi and konowata (salted sea cucumber innards), the menu shifts daily. Past lineups have included fried tofu and eggplant, abalone croquettes and a hangover ramen, and in spring a fry of fatsia shoots and eel. Most seats face the kitchen counter, and beer or a highball goes with the food.