Jeonilgabo 전일갑오

You pull beer from the fridge yourself, and when you get up the bill is counted in empty bottles. This is a Jeonju gamaek, a corner store turned beer hall, with no soju, and the snack at its center is hwangtae, dried pollock grilled over coal briquettes. The fish is bigger than your face; tear it and dip it in a sauce of soy sauce, mayonnaise, chili and sesame. Cuttlefish pressed flat in a roller and then grilled is chewy, and there is a separate line for takeout. When one pollock is not enough, a fluffy rolled omelet is the next order.