전일갑오

Jeonil Gabo is the original gamaek (grocery-store beer bar) landmark near Gaeksa in Jeonju's old downtown, operating for over 20 years. It embodies the uniquely Jeonju custom of setting up tables inside a neighborhood supermarket and drinking beer on-site — only beer is sold here, no soju. Guests grab bottles from the fridge themselves and settle up at the end. The signature order is hwangtae-gui (grilled dried pollock), a slab larger than most faces, charcoal-grilled on a yeontan briquette stove by the grandmother whose cooking performance has become synonymous with the establishment. Dipped in a sweet-savory sauce blended from soy sauce, mayonnaise, chili, and sesame, the hwangtae becomes explosively umami-rich and pairs dangerously well with cold beer. Note that hwangtae is grilled on-site only, so for takeout the cuttlefish is the better choice. The gapo-ojingeo (cuttlefish) is pressed flat in a rolling machine and grilled over charcoal, yielding a satisfyingly chewy texture. The egg roll is fluffy and generous — a solid drinking companion. Snacks and instant noodles from the shop shelves can also be purchased and eaten alongside. With bottled beer at 3,000 to 3,500 won, hwangtae at 12,000 won, cuttlefish at 15,000 won, and egg roll at 8,000 won, a full evening with two dishes and several beers remains remarkably affordable. Anyone who enjoys the old-Euljiro atmosphere or lively, unpretentious drinking scenes should consider this a must-visit. It works better as a second stop than a first, and it is the most prominent among roughly ten gamaek spots clustered in the old downtown. Seating extends to a second floor, but weekend evenings fill up rapidly after 6 p.m., with waits of 30 minutes or more. A separate takeout line often forms as well. Parking is not available, and the serving staff can be terse in their manner — a point to anticipate rather than take personally.