Ganggangsullae Dangsan 강강술래당산점

Sweet, refreshing steamed napa cabbage, a little like white kimchi, sits beside the grilled meat and clears the palate between bites. Dining spreads over the second and third floors of a building on Seonyu-ro, with long tables in rooms closed off by doors and walls for company dinners. Bookings go through Catchtable, and there is valet parking. Wooden lattices and dark brown partitions separate the seats, and a hood drops over each brazier to pull the smoke away. Hanwoo saenggogi modeum is an unmarinated platter of Korean beef, while yangnyeom galbi is soy-seasoned; staff put the meat on the charcoal, turn it and cut it. Set meals end with grain-and-nut stone-pot rice, served with doenjang stew, or naengmyeon.