Dogane Maeuntang 도가네매운탕

Since the early 1980s, this family spot beside Gobok Reservoir has been simmering catfish stew. A heap of minced garlic, about the size of a bowl of rice, goes on top, which keeps the muddy note of freshwater fish down and makes the broth sweeter and cleaner as it reduces. The catfish flesh is soft enough to lift off the bone with chopsticks. Once some of the stew is gone, diners put on plastic gloves and tear sujebi (hand-pulled dough) straight into the pot. Floor seating has been replaced with tables and chairs, and weekend lunch can see a queue of more than 25 groups.