Yongdaengi Maeun-tang 용뎅이매운탕

The restaurant sits on the bank of a Geum River tributary and cooks only one dish, megi-maeuntang, spicy catfish stew. The broth is gently sweet and clean, but the standout is the sujebi, hand-torn dough made from a thin batter that is rested before cooking, which turns soft and chewy. The default heat is mild, and extra chili flakes on request sharpen it. In spring and autumn the tented outdoor tables fill first, while indoors you sit on the floor. The access road is narrow and steep, and there is practically no public transport.