Beolmal Maeuntang 벌말매운탕

From the second- and third-floor dining rooms, planes are visible dropping toward Gimpo Airport while pots of spicy freshwater fish stew bubble on the tables. Catfish and bullhead (bagasari) stews come with whole, full-grown fish, and freshwater shrimp can be added for a nuttier broth. Ramen noodles and sujebi dough are unlimited, but you tear the dough into the pot yourself. Add water to the broth as it cooks, since it starts out salty, and finish with fried rice and a cup of yulmu (Job's tears) tea. The freshwater-crab version is not sold for takeout, and the restaurant is hard to reach without a car.