Dodongjip 도동집

The restaurant sits partway up a steep lane in Huam-dong, which makes the walk a small climb. There is no parking, and the stools have no backrests. Dodong tangmyeon is a hot noodle soup built on anchovy broth with soy sauce and pepper, holding beef, crown daisy greens and wood ear mushrooms over smooth noodles somewhere between udon and thin anchovy noodles. The bulgogi pajeon (scallion pancake with marinated beef) is fried crisper than most, sweet and salty with bits of chili, and needs no dipping soy. On the side, agedashi tofu has a chewy starch coating and a generous sauce with a faint herbal-tonic note.