Deungdaero 등대로

The sun sets over the sea right outside the windows on Biungdo; to catch it, book a seaside window table ahead. The live-fish course runs from appetizers to an ice cream dessert, with firm, chewy sashimi. From the single dishes, the donkatsu comes topped with bonito flakes and an unusual sauce that tastes rather like okonomiyaki, and one plate is sized for two. The clam kalguksu arrives with all but the smallest clams already shelled, which saves a lot of fiddling.