Dangsan Yetnal Gopchang 당산옛날곱창

One assorted platter puts gopchang, daechang, makchang and beef heart on the same grill, each with its own fat and chew. Gopchang arrives pre-grilled with the soft filling intact; daechang melts into rich fat, makchang is firm and chewy, and the heart stays lean. Raw liver and cheonyeop (beef omasum) come with every table, along with a spicy dried-radish-greens soup made with cheongyang chili. Fried rice is cooked in a fresh pan and topped with egg instead of being mixed on the grill you used. The place is near Dangsan Station, queues are frequent, and seating mixes bar and regular tables.