Cheongparang 청파랑

A few minutes up a Malli-dong alley from Seoul Station Exit 15, a freestanding hanok catches the eye from the street. The Son Kee-chung Sports Park public lot is the place to park. Inside, the lighting is low, with bar seats and sofa booths for different kinds of nights out. Signature cocktails are named after places such as Jeonju, Seoul and Manila, the bartenders tell the story behind each glass, and some drinks are smoked in front of you. A whisky sampler lets you compare several pours, and the gujeolpan platter sets out nine compartments, each a different bite. Cheese plates, Malenka honey cake and wine round out the list.