Changseongok 창성옥

Beef neck bones, inner cabbage leaves and seonji (congealed blood) simmer in a doenjang-seasoned broth, Seoul-style haejangguk that tastes clean and mellow rather than red and fiery. A single bowl of so-ppyeo haejangguk holds two tender bones and plenty of springy blood, while the ppyeo-jeongol hotpot for groups deepens the longer it boils. Rice is ordered separately, and a fried egg on the side is a cheap add-on. The Yongmun Market lane near Hyochang Park Station is narrow, with room for only about two cars out front, so a paid lot nearby works better. Doors open early in the morning, which suits a hangover breakfast.