Changhwa Don 창화돈

Sows aged for 168 hours are first seared over a charcoal and wood fire in the kitchen, so the meat finishes quickly at the table and keeps a light smoky edge. Kkeopsal, a rarer cut that eats somewhere between pork jowl and skin, sits beside jjondeuk kkeopdegi, chewy pork skin dusted with seasoned-potato powder. The owner grills at the table and explains how to eat each cut. Pork dipped in sesame-oil salted shrimp is the house pairing, and herring roe rice, with no fishy edge, or a large bowl of doenjang sul-bap finishes the meal. Mul-jjolmyeon, chewy noodles in a light broth, clears the palate, and a spicy pork stew is available separately. Book for peak hours. Upstairs has a low ceiling and tightly packed tables, so the first floor is quieter.