Byeolmi Bokkeum 별미볶음

Cooks toss each order in a Chinese wok over high flame in the open kitchen, so the squid-and-pork-belly ojingeo samgyeop and the spicy pork jeyuk come out heavy with wok smoke. Long-arm octopus and webfoot octopus versions are on the menu too, and these flame dishes start at two portions. The heat is close to spicy stir-fried jjamppong, so steamed egg on the side helps. Eaten straight over rice, the smoky flavor stays clear; mixed in the bowl of lettuce, seaweed flakes, and sesame oil, the heat softens. One bowl of rice per person and seaweed soup are free, and chilled acorn jelly soup is on the side menu. The shop is in the basement arcade of the Yeouido Department Store, with waits at lunch and after work.